In Rijeka, the largest city in the Kvarner region, a leisurely walk along the Corso offers a delightful way to explore this vibrant city, its charming Old Town, and the Trsat Castle perched on a 138-meter-high hill. However, the Velika Placa, or Big Market, stands out as one of the most beloved attractions. This ornate hall features an impressive array of meat, fish, and seafood sold by friendly and engaging vendors. The delicious local products have made the Big Market a favorite dining spot for Rijeka residents since the 19th century.
The market’s history dates back over 300 years, coinciding with Rijeka’s designation as a free royal port. It initially developed near a wooden pier where local fishermen would unload their catches and transport them in baskets to sell.
In 1880, under the direction of Izidor Vauching, head of Rijeka’s Office for Architecture, two pavilions were constructed adjacent to the fish market, providing shelter for additional vendors. These structures were built on newly created land from landfill. Eventually, the city decided to construct a new fish market, which architect Carlo Pergoli completed in 1916. The stunning stone decorations were crafted by renowned Venetian sculptor Urbano Bottasso, resulting in an impressive building adorned with ornate capitals and rich embellishments on the exterior, as well as fountains and tables made from warm grey Istrian stone inside.
To fully appreciate the architectural splendor and the beautiful display of seafood, visitors should head to the upper gallery accessed via the back entrance. This market is considered one of the most beautiful fish markets in Croatia. It has even served as a venue for cultural events, including the opening and closing ceremonies for Rijeka as the European Capital of Culture in 2020. Interestingly, this vibrant performance took place near the Ivan Zajc Croatian National Theatre, in an area that was once submerged by the sea.
As part of the Lungomare art program during Rijeka’s tenure as the European Capital of Culture, Czech artist Pavel Mrkus created an audio-visual installation titled The Masters, which is located on the internal balconies of the fish market. This installation features projected digital images and a sound composition that flows above the heads of vendors and shoppers, mimicking the waves of the nearby sea. The Masters offers a valuable insight into the experiences, skills, and daily lives of local fishermen, honoring those who play a crucial role in ensuring a steady supply of fish for Croatian tables.
For anyone who believes that love is best expressed through food, the Velika Placa is undoubtedly the perfect destination!